Returning to the 4.22 Rear Differential

The Bugeye originally had a 4.22 rear differential and we replaced it with a later MG Midget  3.99 differential. Though it performed quite well (smooth and quiet) and it did a nice job of reducing engine rpms at cruising speeds, it did result in a sacrifice of low end pick up. So, we determined to switch the diffs again and revert to the 4.22.

This would be an easier task if we still had drum brakes because one can pull the axle half shafts without disturbing the brakes. Unfortunately, with the disc brakes in place, pulling the axle half shafts requires removing the calipers and disc rotors. No big deal, just a little extra work!

This job requires getting the car up on jack stands which has become a rather complicated process. We began by using the original (restored) Sprite jack to lift one side of the car. This enables you to get the floor jack under the fuel tank and under the rear differential. Otherwise the fuel tank is too low to permit jack access. Once the rear of the car is raised with floor jack, jack stands can be inserted under the spring perches. One can then move the floor jack to the front of the car and with a 22″ wide piece of 2 x 4 lumber located behind the sway bar, lift the front of the car and place it on jack stands.

Front of car on Jack Stands with 22″ 2×4

We then returned to the rear of the car with the floor jack and lifted the car a bit higher and replaced the smaller jack stands with larger and taller stands. After all that effort we were then ready to get to work.

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Eighteen covers the process of getting the car up in the air and switching out the differentials.

Once again we used Permatex Gear Oil Gasket Maker to seal the differential pumpkin to the axle housing along with a new paper gasket.

Permatex Gear Oil Gasket Maker

We used Blue Hylomar Universal sealant between the hubs and the axle half shafts along with new paper gaskets. We reused the rubber “O”ring seals that had been on the car. This sealant remains pliable and never hardens.

Blue Hylomar Universal Sealant

With everything buttoned up, the wheels mounted on the car, and the car back on the garage floor we took her out for a test drive and the increased low end did put a smile on the face!

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Eighteen:

https://vimeo.com/1122986589/dc684501de?share=copy

The timeline for the video contents:

0:00 – Putting the car on jack stands

0:15 – Using the original Sprite jack to lift one side of the car

0:24 – Using the floor jack to place the rear jack stands

0:55 – Jacking up the front of the car

1:52 – Disconnecting the handbrake rods

2:35 – Removing the calipers

3:18 – Remove brake pad spring clips

3:30 – Remove rotor disc

3:45 – Remove axle half shaft

4:35 – Clean axle hub

4:42 – Caliper piston retracted

5:18 – Remove 3.99 rear differential

5:45 – 4.22 differential installed

6:12 – Propshaft reinstalled

6:25 – Axle brake union reattached to the differential flange

6:35 – Axle hub/half shaft gaskets and sealant

6:50 – Half shaft installed

7:07 – Brake Rotor installed

7:32 – Brake pad spring clips installed

7:47 – Brake pads installed

7:55 – Brake caliper piston retracted

8:57 – Caliper installed and handbrake rods re-connected

9:01 – Differential filled with GL4 80W-90 gear oil

Oil Leak!!

Unfortunately, the next morning we discovered differential oil on the garage floor. Upon further investigation we determined that the pinion seal was leaking. Before we mounted the 4.22 diff, We had added oil to the 4.22 differential on the workbench to see if the pinion seal leaked and even after leaving it overnight we had no leaks. However, driving the car must have warmed the oil and resulted in a leak.

We had a new pinion seal on hand so we set about the process of pulling the old seal and replacing it with the new. The following is a checklist we put together summarizing the work required:

Drain the oil from the diff housing

Put wheel chocks behind the wheels and apply the handbrake. 

Disconnect the prop shaft.

Mark the propeller shaft and the pinion driving flanges so that they may be replaced in the same relative position. Use a chisel or scribe.

Count the number of exposed screw threads beyond the nut on the pinion.

Unscrew the nut in the centre of the driving flange. It is typically on very tight so expect to use a long extension on a breaking bar or an air gun. Remove the nut and washer and withdraw the flange and pressed-on end cover from the pinion shaft. The flange may need to be tapped with a soft hammer to remove it from the splines.

Extract the oil seal from the casing. Drive a self tapping screw into the seal and then use the claw of a hammer to retract the old seal.

Press a new oil seal into the casing with the edge of the sealing ring facing inwards (flat to the outside). Smear the outside edge of the seal with grease or oil.

Replace the driving flange end cover, taking care not to damage the edge of the oil seal. Tighten the nut with a torque wrench to a reading of 140 lb. ft. (19·36 kg. m.) . Instead of the 140 ft. lbs., we tightened the nut sufficiently to align our marks scribed on the pinion and the nut.

Reconnect the propeller shaft, taking care to fit the two flanges with the locating marks in alignment.

Refill the axle with gear oil.

Holding the differential flange in a stationary position to either loosen or tighten the pinion nut proved to be the only really challenging part of the job. To remove the nut, locking down the flange with two ratchet straps worked well enough.

Ratchet straps holding the pinion flange

However, to torque the nut we had to turn to friend Randy Forbes who fabricated a tool for us that worked exceptionally well.

Randy Forbes Custom Tool

The tool and the entire process is shown in Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Twenty.

This is the old and leaking pinion seal:

Pinion Seal Exposed

After completing reassembly, we took the Bugeye for another test drive and let the car sit overnight. We were pleased to discover no oil leaks! Another job complete.

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Twenty:

https://vimeo.com/1124639344/1c4220d11c?share=copy

 

 

Rear Disc Brakes!

One could say that the rear brakes on the bugeye have been a journey. We began with the original drum brakes that were on the 948 bugeye, and then upgraded to later MG Midget rear drum brakes with the dual piston brake cylinders. That upgrade involved, new back plates, new cylinders, new adjusters, in new springs. If you read our earlier post regarding the upgrade to the later drum brakes, you know that it wasn’t an easy job as we ended up, having to modify the back plate and the drums to avoid rubbing.

Late in the game, after expense and considerable effort, we made the decision to upgrade yet again to rear disc brakes. In researching the topic, we discovered there were several vendors selling conversion kits. Frontline in England, https://shop.frontline-cars.co.uk/parts-and-upgrades/product/17 the Bugeyeguy in Connecticut, https://bugeyeguyparts.com/products/rear-disc-brake-kit and Ol Phartz Parts in California, https://www.olphartz.com/rear-disc-brake-conversion-kits.html

After some head scratching and deliberation we decided on the kit from Steve Christensen at Ol Fartz Parts. Steve’s kit is nicely put together and uses modern brake calipers sourced from a Nissan Sentra. Considerable documentation with photographs is supplied in the kit and was very helpful in assembly.

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Ninety-nine shows the contents of the kit and our installation.

https://vimeo.com/1087193582/c834792afd?ts=0&share=copy

0:00 – Disc brake kit selection

1:20 – Ol Phartz’s parts kit contents

6:20 –  Painting components

7:18 – Removal of brake drums, hubs and backplates

12:05 – Caliper brackets installed

12:50 – Reinstall hubs, bearings, tab washers and axle nuts

14:18 – New axle gasket, “O” rings, and half shafts installed

14:30 – Brake rotors installed

14:57 – Caliper torque bracket installed

15:55 – Disk pads installed

16:05 – Spring clips and pad retainers installed

17:40 – Caliper body installed

18:40 – Brake hoses and axle brackets installed

20:15 – Handbrake rods and linkage installed

20:58 – Brake hard pipes installed to 3-way connector

 

 

Front Disc Brake Conversion

We bought the Bugeye in 1998 and shortly thereafter the car was taken to Grand Touring Classics, Inc in Stanarsville, VA for a safety inspection and a conversion to front disc brakes. Garland Gentry and his assistant took care of collecting the needed parts from a post 1964 Midget and installing them on the car. After some period of time we changed out the 7/8″ master cylinder for a 3/4″ which worked much better.

Of course, it is not as simple as just switching out the brakes. it is also necessary to install new stub axles and king pins, dust tubes and springs, hubs, back plates, calipers, hose brackets, rotors, pads with pad retaining plates with clips, new hoses with banjo bolts and copper washers. For the complete restoration of the car in 2024 all of the front brake components were updated and/or replaced. Parts were sourced from A.H. Spares and Moss Motors.

The front brakes, steering and suspension are integrated in assembly. Details of all of these  mechanicals are detailed in other posts regarding these subjects. The build up of the front hub assemblies and brakes ,may be found in this post: https://valvechatter.com/?p=13792   A video showing the assembly is included in the post.

Front Suspension, Brakes and Steering Completed

It has been a little more than three months since we began the work on the front suspension, brakes and steering in the Bugeye, but we have now completed the rebuild and have the car back on its tires and on the ground!

Everything has been updated and documented in previous posts in this blog:

New hub bearings and seals

New king pins and bushings in the spindle axles

New rotors, calipers and brake pads, new Goodridge stainless brake hoses, new cunifer hard brake pipes, new “Sebring-type” pedal box and pedal pads with separate master cylinders

New “A” arms, fulcrum pins and poly bushes throughout

New steering rack, shims and rod ends and the proper steering arms were sourced and installed

Rebuilt lever shocks and new rubber bump stops

New coil springs

Everything cleaned and painted

The Bugeye Restoration Episode Thirty-five video shows the final steps in completing the work described above. 

https://vimeo.com/810655660/46123c8339

The following steps are addressed in the video:

0:00 – Torquing the hub nuts and installing split pins

0:44 – Hub grease caps installed

0:48 – Front caliper banjo bolts installed

1:20 – Goodridge Stainless Steel flexible brake hoses installed

1:35 – Making brake pipe bubble flares

4:42 – Master cylinder to brake union brake pipe installed

5:00 – Steering rack installed

5:52 – Steering rack bracket shims installed

6:14 – Steering column to steering rack pinion shaft mating

6:50 – Steering rack mounting clamp bolts torqued

7:17 – Tie rod ends fitted and torqued

7:30 – Toe-in adjustment

7:50 – Front tires mounted and car placed back on the ground

9:12 – Inner fulcrum pins tightened

 

 

 

Brakes

The front drum brakes of the 100-Sixes were replaced by Girling 11” disc brakes on the 3000 in March 1959. Rear brakes were 11” Girling drums that were also controlled by a handbrake lever located on the right side of the gearbox tunnel

 Brake Modifications

The most significant modification I made to the braking of the 1960 MKI was the conversion of the rear drum brakes to disc brakes. This was accomplished with a kit based on Jaguar calipers coupled with mini-handbrake calipers sourced from Cape International. New rods to connect to the balance lever are supplied so that the handbrake functions as original. This is a pdf file of the instructions provided by Cape International.Cape Int Disc Brake Conversion 1

Rear Disc Brake

Rear Disc Brake

Handbrake Lever

Handbrake Lever

Aeroquip Braided Stainless Steel Hoses

Original-style rubber brakes hoses were replaced with stainless braided hoses also sourced from Cape International.

Stainless & Braided Brake Lines

Stainless & Braided Brake Lines

Drilled Front Brake Rotors

While standard rebuilt calipers were used in the front, the rotors were replaced with drilled rotors supplied by Cape International.

Drilled Front Rotors

Drilled Front Rotors

Speed Bleeders

I utilized the new technology for brake bleeders, Speed Bleeders. These bleeders have a small stainless ball in them that close off the release of brake fluid, making the process of brake bleeding much easier.

Speed Bleeders

Speed Bleeders

Recent production of the hydraulic brake switch has not produced a reliable switch. A remedy to the situation is to use a mechanical brake switch first developed by hot rodders. I sourced the switch I used from Watson’s Street Works. A description is provided in this Watsons mechanical brake switch.

Watson's Brake Switch

Watson’s Brake Switch

Watson's Brake Switch

Watson’s Brake Switch

 Brake Reservoir Canister Gasket

Other Healey restorers had noted that if overfilled, hydraulic fluid could slosh out of the vent hole in the reservoir cap and ruin the paint. Ever resourceful contributors to the British Car Forum discovered that a simple little gasket available in most auto parts stores fit perfectly in the reservoir cap, thereby solving the problem. I used one of the se “HELP” gaskets, #42072 in the Bloody Beast.

HELP Gasket

HELP Gasket

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Brakes MK2

The Front and Rear Brakes

The Jaguar MK2 uses a single line hydraulic system actuating disc brakes in both the front and rear of the car. While the four wheel disc brakes were “cutting edge” at the time of production for a four-door sedan, today, the braking action can be upgraded with vendor supplied modification kits. Front Brake Upgrade I decided to go with the Coopercraftbrake upgrade kit for the front and rear of the car. Up front, their four pot brake caliper range has been updated to include stainless steel pistons, a refined and improved caliper design for strength and efficiency. To gain some weight savings I installed the optional aluminum calipers. The system employs ventilated disc rotors that should help with cooling. No modifications were required for mounting. Every thing was a “bolt-on” application. Coopercraft provided fitting instructions with their kit:

Coopercraft Front Braking Installation Instructions

Coopercraft Front Braking Installation Instructions

Calipers and Pads

Calipers and Pads

Coopercraft Calipers

Coopercraft Calipers

The photos above show the upgraded EBC “Green Stuff” brake pads. After installing the vented rotors on the front suspension crossmember assembly I installed the calipers finding that it appeared that no shims would be needed for proper fit.  Two bolts secure each caliper to the stub axle housing lugs: The shorter 1/2″ x 1 1/8″ – 20 is at the upper mount and the longer 1/2″ x 2 5/8″ – 20 is at the lower mount. Each bolt is accompanied by a flat washer and a split washer. The cad plated brackets were used on the original brakes to support the union of the rubber brake hose to the metal caliper pipe. With the Coopercraft upgrade these are not used, as the hose links directly to the caliper.

However, I found that sliding the EBC pads into the caliper, on either side of the rotor, was difficult and the concluding fit was much tighter than I liked. After checking with Coopercraft, they advised that the EBC pads are about 2mm wider than the standard pads. I volunteered that while I was looking for an “upgraded” braking experience, I was not going to be racing the car. They suggested that I might want to go with standard pads rather than the EBC pads. They also recommended that if I was going with standard pads in the front brakes that I should do the same with the rear brakes. Oh well, just wasted money once again!

I ordered standard front pads to fit a Series II/III E-Type (the proper pad to fit the upgraded alloy calipers) JLM 9515 as well as standard pads for the rear 10821* from SNG Barratt and they fit just as they should. Wish that I had ordered the Mintex pads to begin with!

Coopercraft Vented Rotors, Alloy Calipers fitted with Goodridge Stainless Brake Hose and Hubs installed

Coopercraft Vented Rotors and Alloy Calipers with Standard Mintex Pads and Hubs Installed

Anti-rattle clips are added after the pads and pins are installed. These spring clips are part number 12292 and a total of four are required.

Anti-Rattle Spring Clips for Brake Pads Installed

Mintex Front Caliper Brake Pads

 

I replaced the original rubber brake hose with Goodridge stainless hoses. The larger fitting on the end of the hose is metric, 16 mm diameter – .50 with with a 16mm -.50 nut.

Goodridge Stainless Brake Hose

Goodridge Stainless Brake Hose

After mounting the calipers I safety wired the caliper mounting bolts. 

Stainless Safety Wire and Twist Tool

I used 19 gauge wire that is probably a little heavier than needed but it worked just fine. If you are doing safety wiring, it can certainly be done with regular pliers, but the twist tool gives a very nice uniform appearance to the wire and is easy to use. 

Safety Wire on Front Brake Calipers

No videos are perfect, but this short video gives you a pretty good look at how safety wiring should be done. There is sound but screen captions are used initially.

Rear Brake Upgrade

In the rear, the Coopercraft upgrade kit consists of four redesigned and uprated cylinders, incorporating stainless steel pistons in an alloy caliper. This kit utilizes the standard handbrake mechanism and is designed to maintain a good balance with their uprated front sets. As stated previously, I did not use the EBC pads and instead substituted the standard pad provided by SNG Barratt.

Alloy Rear Brakes

Alloy Rear Brakes

Rear Brake Friction Pads

The small tabs with holes in each brake pad is to permit the insertion of a hooked wire to pull the pad out when it is replaced. The pads are held in place by the Retaining Plate for Friction Pads as seen below with mounting hardware.

Rear Brake Friction Pad Retainer with Fasteners

The image below shows the Coopercraft Alloy Pistons and Housings installed in the original calipers with new pads secured by the pad retainer. 

RH Rear Brake Caliper with Retaining Plate for Friction Pads Installed

The calipers need to be centered around the rotors and this is accomplished with the use of shims on the two bolts securing the calipers to the axle. On my car, I use five .010″ shims on the upper bolt of the RH caliper and five .010″ shims on the lower bolt. On the LH side, I used no shims on the upper bolt and two .010″ shims on the lower bolt.

Following assembly, I safety wired the mounting bolts for both rear calipers.

Safety Wired Rear Calipers

A warranty is also provided by Coopercraft:

Coopercraft Brake System Warranty and Liability

Coopercraft Brake System Warranty and Liability

Rear Brake Caliper Rebuild

Rear Brakes

Rear Brakes

In addition to adding the new Coopercraft Piston/Cylinder Sub-Assemblies I completely rebuilt the Rear Caliper Assemblies including the Handbrake Calipers. As the image below illustrates the original silver color was long gone!

Left Rear Brake Caliper

Left Rear Brake Caliper

To disassemble the calipers, I first separated the handbrake calipers from the primary caliper. To do so, I bent back the tabs on the Tab Washer and unscrewed the two Bolts, Securing Handbrake Mechanism to Rear Calipers. I then removed the Retraction Plate Fork that permitted the removal of the LH and RH Handbrake Pad Carrier Assembly with the friction pads. The Bolt, Securing Pad Carriers to Operating Lever was then unscrewed separating the two Carriers. I then removed the Support Plates for friction pads which simply fit into slots on the caliper body. Four 1/4″-24 x 7/8″ hex head bolts with shakeproof washers secured each Piston/Cylinder Assemblies. These were removed and the assemblies with the friction pads were removed. The Retaining Plate for friction pads was held in place with a 1/4″ – 24 x 7/8″ hex head bolt. It was removed and will not be replaced until the caliper is mounted and the new friction pads are installed. The Bridge Pipe Assembly and the Bleed Screw and Ball Assembly were removed from the Piston/Cylinder Assemblies and replaced with a new pipe and fittings. All components were then media blasted or otherwise cleaned and painted with Eastwood’s silver ceramic caliper paint. New bolts and screws were installed along with new friction pads.

LH Rear Brake Caliper Components

LH Rear Brake Caliper Components

Right Rear Brake Caliper Refurbished

Right Rear Brake Caliper Refurbished

Right Rear Brake Caliper Refurbished

Right Rear Brake Caliper Refurbished

Rear Caliper LH & RH

Rear Caliper LH & RH

 

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