Tag Archives: Side Curtains

Preparing the Bugeye Boot

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There is a lot to cram into the little cavern, called a boot, in the rear of the Bugeye! As with the rest of the car we tried to dress things up here too. So, what goes back in the hole? There is the spare tire, the soft top, the side curtains, the soft top frame, the “all weather” cover, the jack bag (with the breaker bar and lug nut socket), and a small tool bag.

First in is the spare tire. We had some plastic left over from the interior cross member cover project so we used it as a liner between the red hardura floor mat and the tire – just to prevent rubber oils or dirt from staining the hardura. We had Mike Ruckman from British Car Interiors in Tampa make a carpet cover for the spare tire. He did a great job. We had the same carpet that matched the interior.

Spare Tire Cover

We purchased storage bags for the top, the top frame and the side curtains from Bugeyeguys. While they don’t match our red theme (they are black with white piping) they are nicely made and of high vinyl quality.

Soft Top Storage Bag

Soft Top Frame “Taco” Bag

Side Curtain Storage Bag

We purchased a couple of black storage bags from Amazon. One for the jack, an extendable breaker bar and a 17mm socket for the wheel lug nuts and the other for some tools or spare parts.

Jack Storage Bag

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Nineteen shows the loading of the boot with the items mentioned in this post:

https://vimeo.com/1123287575/9ed6b9a99c?share=copy

 

Soft Top and Side Curtains

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Unfortunately, our options were limited in sourcing a soft top and tonneau for the Bugeye. We had a Robbins top on the car previously and we would’ve liked to have used the Robbins top for this restoration. However, Robbins does not make a red top and we definitely wanted to use red. We like the Robbins material and the excellent fit, but we ended up going with a top from bugeyeguys.com. Their top did fit reasonably well.

As we approached the installation of the top, we began to think about the potential for the top scratching the painted surface of the Bugeye. Although we had just completed polishing and ceramic coating the car we determined that it was best to use a paint protection film (PPT) on the portion of the rear shroud covered by the soft top. This meant we had to remove the ceramic coating before we could install the PPT, but that is the subject of another post.

To get on with the installation of the soft top while the PPT was on order, we purchased a clear vinyl shower curtain liner to place between the body and the top. The placement of the clear liner and the complete installation of the top and side curtains is shown in Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Seventeen. A new two piece soft top frame also purchased from bugeyeguys.com was used.

Two Piece Soft Top Frame

The steel bars used to provide rigidity for the top for mounting at the windshield, and on the rear shroud were removed from the old top and used in the new one.

Soft Top Support Bars

The soft top requires three different types of fasteners: four Tenax fasteners, two “common sense” fasteners, and two lift-a-dot fasteners. all of these fasteners were provided with the soft top by Bugeyeguys.

Our first step in the process was to install the two chrome “teardrop” fasteners that secure the top’s rear bar.

Rear Top Fastener

We made a pair of rubber gaskets to fit between the painted surface and the fastener. The process is shown in the accompanying video. The installed fasteners are shown in the image below.

Rear Top Fasteners Mounted to the Car

There were no instructions provided with the top; however, Rimmer Bros. in England does have an installation instruction document on their web site. We followed their guidance and found it to be helpful.Sprite Soft Top Installation Instructions

The side curtains we already had were in fairly good shape. We polished the metal surfaces and the plexiglass, lubricated the sliding tracks and installed them on the car.

Soft Top Installed

Finally, we purchased storage bags for the soft top, the soft top frame and the side curtains from Bugeyeguys.com. These bags are quite nice. They are made from a high grade vinyl and should work very well to protect the components.

Soft Top Bag with Envelope for Bar

Side Curtain Storage Bag

Soft Top Frame Storage Bag

The entire process is shown in Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Seventeen:

https://vimeo.com/1121702983/5849373995?share=copy

The timeline for the video contents:

0:00 – Soft top rear retaining clips

1:20 – Soft top installation temporary paint protection

3:28 – Front and rear body center lines

4:13 – Soft top frame installation

5:09 – Soft top’s center lines

5:59 – Securing the top’s front mounting bar

6:18 – Securing the top’s rear mounting bar

6:22 – Adjusting the top’s frame

6:39 – Tenax fasteners installed

8:28 – “Common sense” fasteners installed

8:55 – Soft top installation complete

9:36 – Side curtains cleaned, polished and installed

10:49 – Side curtain thumb screws

11:36 – Storage bags for the soft top, side curtains and soft top frame

11:45 – Soft top frame storage bag

12:06 – Soft top storage bag

13:00 – Side curtain storage bag

 

 

Side Curtains

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March, 2009

I currently have brand new sidecurtains. They fit reasonably well, have new clear plexiglass that slides easily and the new aluminum frames are blemish free. In other words they look about as good as side curtains can look.

However, with a 7,000 – 8,000 mile cross country trip ahead of me, I am looking for a way to modify the sidecurtains so that they will not be so noisy. Even though they are new, they still rattle like crazy. The two plexiglass panels bang together and make a real racket.

Tim Moran and I have been working independently on a modification or redesign of the side curtains to address a couple of issues, but in my case primarily the noise.

I decided to use an old set of aluminum side curtain frames as the basis of my project. I cut the top and rear upright out of the frames so that I could slide a new piece of Lexan (one piece) into the frame. The inside track of the frame is wide enough to accept the 1/4″ Lexan. I suppose that I could spend some big bucks and have a fabricator make a chromed brass channel for a frame, but I didn’t have time before my trip. The other reason for modifying the original frame is that it allowed me to just insert new rubber seals to seal the side curtain to the exterior of the door. I used Lexan because it is much stronger than plexiglass, and it can be drilled without fear of cracking.

I also used the two original brackets that mount the side curtains to the inside of the door. For the rear bracket (as the photo shows) I inserted the bolt for the top fitting of the bracket through a hole I drilled in the Lexan. I then made a pattern for new glass and had a glass shop cut my Lexan. I am pretty satisfied with the one-piece side curtain glass. Of course, the big problem is no ventilation.

Solid Lexan Panel Image 1

Solid Lexan Panel Image 1

Solid Lexan Panel Image 1

Solid Lexan Panel Image 2

So I made an additional Lexan panel with a hinged section so that I could let in some fresh air and pay the tolls at the toll booths. I got my idea for this from Tim although our concepts are bit different. I used an acrylic hinge from McMaster-Carr.  http://www.mcmaster.com/#11565a12/=1dshceThe acrylic hinge is not as flexible as the polyester that McMaster-Carr offers, but it is completely clear.

Flap Lock When Folded

Flap Lock When Folded Image 3

Lexan Panel with Flap

Lexan Panel with Flap Image 4

I took the car for a ride with the new glass and I can only imagine that it must be very similar to a BJ7-8 now. Absolutely no rattling or wind buffeting and actually very little wind noise – quite comfortable.

To hold down the flap, you can see in the photos that I made a little metal tab from 12 gauge steel, 3/4″ wide. I rounded the corners and glued a piece of rubber to it so there is a buffer between the lexan and the metal. When the flap is in the upright position, you cannot see the metal tab as it is hidden behind the side curtain rear bracket. When the flap is down you just rotate the metal tab upward to hold the lexan flap.

I gave the hinged lexan panel with flap a road test also. Like the one piece lexan windows, the one with the fold down flap also functioned quite well. A little fresh air and no rattling. The air intake is limited. A larger flap would bring in more air I am sure. It is all a matter of personal taste.

In my continuing quest to improve on the design and therefore functionality of the side curtains I have recently experimented with aviation vents. I saw this idea on a Cobra Forum posting and thought I would give it a try. The vents are made of clear acrylic and cost all of $15.00 a pair. I ordered them from Aircraft Spruce http://www.aircraftspruce.com  Snap Vents, #05-01179, $14.85/pair.

Aircraft Vent in Solid Lexan Panel

Aircraft Vent in Solid Lexan Panel Image 5

Aircraft Vent in Solid Lexan Panel

Aircraft Vent in Solid Lexan Panel Image 6

Aircraft Vent in Solid Lexan Panel

Aircraft Vent in Solid Lexan Panel Image 7

Installation is literally a “snap.” I located where I wanted to the vent to be (avoid interference with wing driving mirror), and then drilled a 3 1/4” hole in the Lexan. Smooth the edges with a file and/or sandpaper and then compress the sides of the vent a bit and snap it in place. That is all there is to it. I like this option and plan to use it as my final solution (until I think of an improvement, of course!).

 

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Chapter 90 Week Sixty February 4, 2008

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After doing some research on the soft top, I have decided to order a Robbins top and tonneau. I was originally going to use the Sun-Fast cloth material, but have decided to use the material that is closer to the original vinyl. They should arrive this week and then I will decide if I will do the installation myself or get a professional to do the job. 

I have discovered that the original drain tap on the left side of the motor leaks and I cannot seem to get it to stop. I ordered a new one, only to discover that it leaks too! I have decided to put a plug in the block in place of the tap.

I have new side curtains and I began the task of fitting them to the car. The RH curtain, although tight in the rear did mount successfully. The LH curtain, on the other hand, doesn’t seem to want to fit properly. I will “play” with it next week and see what I can work out.

Chapter 24 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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February 12, 2005

Fitting Shrouds and Wings 

Rear Shroud –After removing all small components from the car I secured the shrouds and wings to the car to prepare it to go to Jeremy Turner for panel fitting and painting. To get the shroud and wings lined up properly, the rear shroud first needs to be riveted to the frame. There are a number of sheet metal screw holes in the superstructure and the shroud that Martin used to position the shroud, they are not needed for final installation.

In addition to the rivets, there are six #10 –32 x 1/2” flat head screws and nuts inside the top rear lip of the boot lid channel. Four of the screws attach through the two steel metal clips that provide support for the boot lid hinges.

rear fender fasteners

Rear wing securing plate 1

Wing right rear 1

Wing right rear 3

Wing right rear 4

Wing right rear 2

Front Shroud – Installed 3 flat head #10 x 1/2” machine screws in lip at front of the bonnet channel. Must catch the bottom frame rails on the inside first, then angle the back of the shroud up in the air – not easy to do!

Installed 5 flat head #6 x 3/8” sheet metal screws in lip at back of bonnet channel.

Installed two flat head #10 x 1/2” machine screws on each under bonnet vertical bracket. Couldn’t fasten properly on the left side because of the misformed panel at the left front corner of the superstructure.

Front Wings – Started with the fastener closest to the headlight. Then fastened the rearmost fastener. The long screws are used on the top of the wings. The clips with the shorter screws are used at the front of the wing by the turn signal lights.

Wing Right Front flange1

Wing Right Front flange 2

Car with wings 1

Doors – Pulled the door up and out and then tighten the hinge screws. May need to do some shimming to align correctly.

June 19, 2005 

Side Curtains – I determined that It was better to purchase new side curtains rather than restoring my old ones. However, while the new frames looked quite good, I thought the old rear brackets were better formed than the new brackets. To dress them up and avoid rust in the future, I decided to chrome plate the old brackets.

Chrome Plating 

I sent a number of parts to Custom Chrome Plating in Pennsylvania for plating. Some were for replating and others were items that I just decided to chrome. I am a little concerned about getting too much plating in the windscreen frame channels but it will hopefully turn out alright.

1 Breather Pipe

1 Bonnet Grille

1 Bonnet Grill Surround

1 Interior Dash Grab Handle

1 Interior Dash Grab Handle Escutcheon

2 Boot Hinges (2 pieces each)

2 Rear Seat Squab Retaining Channel Assemblies (2 pieces each)

1 Handbrake Handle

1 Handbrake Pawl

1 Handbrake Ratchet Plate

1 Thermostat Cover

2 Rear Seat Back Hinge Hardware (2 pieces each)

1 Windscreen Frame (4 pieces)

1 Front Grille

1 Boot Spare Tire Strap Staple

2 Side Curtain Brackets (2 pieces each)

Parts to chrome 2

Parts to chrome 10

Rear Seat Squab 

When I owned the car as a twenty year old I decided that rear speakers in the squab were more important than originality! I have decided to have the squab rebuilt by a local carpenter (He made the pieces and I put it together) before sending it to Heritage Upholstery and Trim for upholstery.

Rear Seat Squab assembly

Rear Seat Squab assembly

Rear Seat Squab assembly

Rear Seat Squab assembly

Rear License Plate Bracket and Lamp 

Since I am using Rally car bumpers rather than the original full bumper I need to develop a new approach to mounting the plate and the lamp. I had fabricated something myself, but then decided to modify the BJ8 bracket and mount it directly to the car. I saw another approach on Aussie Peter Jackson’s BN7 at VIR and I may still do something like his.

license & Lamp bracket 1

license & Lamp bracket 2

license & Lamp bracket 5

Peter Jackson’s car:

Peter Jackson’s Plate 

Peter Jackson’s Plate

Battery Master Switch 

So many have complained about problems with the original master switch that I decided to replace it with a modern equivalent from Hella. I mounted it in the original switch bracket.

Battery Master Switch 1

Battery Master Switch 2