Bleeding the Brakes & Bedding-in the Pads and Rotors

We used a combination of the traditional pumping the brakes while also opening and closing the caliper bleeder valves with the Gunson’s EEZIBLEED system.

Gunson’s EEZIBLEED

Combining the two methods did result in some braking action, but it was not the firm pedal that we were looking for. We let some time pass and then came back to this project.

Since the brake lines were essentially full of fluid and we had removed much of the air in the lines, we tried a slightly different approach with the EEZIBLEED system. Rather than putting fluid in the pressurized container, we simply pressurized the system to 15 pounds and used the compressed air to push the silicone brake fluid throughout the system. This process worked pretty well and we ended up with decent pedal feel. While the brakes are good enough for travel on the road and initial testing, we will undertake the bleeding process once again after we get a few miles on the car. It is just a usual iterative process with these little British cars.

On July 14, 2025, we took the restored bugeye on the road for the first time. It was a short ride at slow speed intended only to break in the new disc brake pads and rotors. We followed the recommendation of Steve Christiansen of Ol Phartz Partz from whom we purchased the rear disc brake kit. However, his instructions are very similar to that provided by both Moss Motors and by Green Stuff, maker of the brake pads we used on the front wheels.

As Steve says, “the rotors and pads require a thermal cycling process for maximum performance and longer wear. This will also lessen the likelihood of the rotors, cracking due to thermal shock. To bed in the brakes; accelerate moderately to approximately 25 mph and apply the brakes down to about 5 mph using normal to light pedal effort. Do this 8 to 10 times, slow slowly building up heat in the pads and rotors. Do not make severe stops or apply brakes during acceleration. After temperature has been built in the pads and rotors, use the brakes extremely hard several times. Park the vehicle and let the brake cool for about 1 to 2 hours until the rotors have cooled to ambient temperature.”

We completed the bedding-in ride and will test drive the car for a longer distance the next time out. The short Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Twelve shows a little about the final brake bleeding process and the brief test drive.

https://vimeo.com/1101278228/9cef5f77df?share=copy

 

 

 

Front Hub Assemblies and Brakes

Continuing with the front suspension rebuild, we assembled the swivel pins (stub axles) to the hubs and brake rotors. New king pins were installed in the axles after new bushings were fitted and reamed. New grease zerks were fit and poly bushes were installed in the upper trunnion.

Front Suspension
Front suspension Components

We did a fair amount of research regarding the proper ball bearings to use for the Sprite/Midget front suspension. Bearings from the usual British parts suppliers don’t seem to completely replicate the original bearings used as manufactured. A British supplier, Ransome and Marles, https://www.ransomeandmarles.co.uk does sell the original ball bearings. They are pricey, but in this case the quality and value seem worth the price. Proper fit and tight tolerances are important! The bearings came with a new oil seal as well. We packed the bearings with high quality bearing grease and installed them in the hubs and then installed the oil seals.

Front Hub assembly
R&M Bearings and Lucas Bearings Comparison

We then secured the new brake rotors to the hubs with the original four bolts and torqued each to 40 ft. lbs. The brake dust shields must be attached to the swivel axles with the one hex bolt before the hub and rotor are slipped onto the swivel axle.

Dust Shields Installed

Once the hub and rotor and the swivel axle are mated the tab washer can be installed on the axle followed by the castle nut. The nut is then torqued to 46 ft. lbs and then rotated clockwise until the hole in the axle lines up with an opening in the castle nut. A cotter pin can then be inserted and bent back although we will wait to bend the pin until the hub assemblies are actually on the car.

Tab washer on stub axle
Hub Assemblies

 

The new brake calipers sourced from Moss Motors were then installed on the hub assembly. As the accompanying video shows, the two 7/16″ bolts that secure the calipers to the assembly pass through the locking tab washer, the brake hose locating bracket, the dust shield, the caliper and then into the swivel axle. These bolts are torqued to 50 ft. lbs. Again, we will wait to bend back the tab washer until the hub assemblies are on the car.

The proper steering arms were then fastened to the hub assembly along with a tab washer that will be bent back later.

Calipers Installed on Hub assemblies

Classic Gold brake pads purchased from Moss Motors were installed into the calipers along with shims. The shims were coated with a Permatex lubricant designed for this purpose. The pads are extremely tight against the rotor. We tried releasing the bleeder valve and pushing back the pistons but this did not rectify the problem.

Brake caliper with classic gold pads

Some EBC green pads were ordered to see if they might fit better. 

The Episode 32 video shows the process of the hub and brake assembly: https://vimeo.com/797978369/33c374192a

0:00 – New king pins in swivel axles

0:25 – Axle grease zerks and poly bushes in the upper trunnion

1:10 – Ransome and Marles ball bearings on axle

2:10 – Bearings installation

2:43 – Packing bearings with grease

4:20 – Tapping bearings into the hub and installing the spacer

6:50 – Install oil seals in hub

7:05 – Brake rotors fastened to the hub

7:40 – Dust shield installation

8:20 – Tab washer installation on axle shaft

8:42 – Castle nut on axle shaft torqued to 46 ft. lbs.

9:10 – Brake calipers, brake hose brackets, tab washers installed

11:10 – Steering arms with tab washers installed

11:40 – Classic Gold brake pads and shims installed